I love the SMWSA. I remember fondly the first time I had some whisky from SMWSA - it was a young Laphroaig called a “tongue-curling wrestler’s armpit of a dram,” and it was delicious. I had purchased memberships for Mike F. and Mike C. and several friends from school - it was a big present for me but one I was proud to give. The whiskies we got from it were truly great, and I have a Port Ellen stashed away for a very special night. And not only were the whiskies great, but I love the detailed tasting notes, the totally not secret numbering scheme, and the exclusivity.
But I am no longer a member. Though the whiskies are great, my budget would not allow me to continue to be a member. Value is something that gets discussed quite a bit in our whisky world, and there is no answer but a personal answer unique to every whisky lover. The SMWSA was kind enough to send us a few samples (many thanks), and I hope that we can contribute to informing people’s decisions so they can get the very best value for the money that they spend. My picks of the ones below, my value-buys are the Auchentoshan 12 (SMWS 5.35) and the Glen Scotia 9 (SMWS 93.47).
Incidentally, the SMWSA puts on an “Extravaganza” and as Mike F. has posted about here and here, it is a doozy. Absolutely wonderful in every sense of the word. My only critique would be that for San Francisco it’s on a Wednesday, and people who travel for work like me can not attend. The SMWSA Extravaganza visits San Francisco on Wednesday, November 14th. Tickets and other city dates can be seen on their website.

Auchentoshan 12 (SMWS 5.35), or Laundry in the Bakery
Distilled June 1999, Price of $105
ABV: 54.7%
Color: Fresh gold straw
Nose: Dr. Pepper, sweet dessert wine, flowers
Taste: Sweet flowers are still there, but this is sharper and less sweet. You can taste the strength. There’s a saltiness to this as well, but it matches well with the sweetness. Water brings out some berries - cerealish (think literally fake berries in actual cereal), and the taste the nose promises is there. The bite disappears but the finish is short.
Overall: The nose is exceptional, and the taste is an easy sipper. This is a whisky for those who don’t want to think about it too much - who want to come home from work and share something sweet with friends.
Official Tasting Note:
Initial nose is fresh and light, elderflower cordial, green apples and lemon puffs. Deeper and dweeter notes develop quickly, giving homely and warm feeling, like baking bread of jam doughnuts. Quite hot and lively to taste, strawberries with black pepper, turning fruity and fizzy like strawberry creamola foam, also creamy similar to a raspberry milk shake or Macchiato coffee. That creaminess carries on when adding water and aromas of apple toffee, rice pudding, butter icing, strawberry jam and dough bread emerge. The taste is that of dark hot chocolate, brown sugar, cinnamon and blackberry jam. And to finish, from this distillery known for distilling three times, cold peppermint tea and fresh slightly soapy laundry.
Glen Elgin 12 (SMWS 85.23), or Burnt Granary Toast with Bramble Jelly
Distilled September 1999, Price of $105
ABV: 59.4%
Color: Deep yellow chicken stock
Nose: Fresh sneaker rubber, hints of fresh italian herbs, and there’s the dried fruit from the refill sherry butt
Taste: Burnt fruit with some sea salt added. It’s a bit of a sickly sweet oaty taste. There’s some distinct sourness, but it’s oily and warming. Water brings out some grassiness and barnyard smell, and really hits home on the burnt sourness. It’s a little like sour milk (in a good way) with a warming sweet aftertaste that sticks in your mouth.
Overall: A good drinker, though one for which you need to be in the mood. This is the whisky that Mad Men used to drink with a couple of rocks. It’s got a little of the sherry flavor that comes through mainly in the aftertaste. There’s some sourness, some bitterness, and some taste that lasts.
Official Tasting Note:
The first notes are typical of ex-sherry wood maturation: lightly sulphury, with struck matches, or as one put it ‘home-made egg mayo with granary bread.’ The sulphur notes soon blow off, leaving yeasty, sour pumpernickel bread and baked pecan pie. At natural strength the taste is very sweet, burnt and aggressive. Water re-introduces the sulphur notes, which linger behind burnt toast spread with butter and bramble jelly or plum jam, and later treacle toffee. In the mouth, the texture is thick and smooth, the taste very sweet and slightly bitter, with raw brambles and redcurrants.
Glen Scotia 9 (SMWS 93.47), or Seaweed, Sushi and Arbroath Smokies
Distilled April 2002, Price of $90
ABV: 59.7%
Color: light gray yellow
Nose: jordan almonds, fresh apple air heads right out of the package
Taste: whoah. there’s smoke, there’s tar, there’s that apple. i just swallowed an ash tray and someone popped in a wintergreen lifesaver. water takes down the smoke and brings out some fruit and sweetness.
Overall: this is one of those interesting whiskies - where the nose belies the taste, but both are delicious in their own right. the taste is a sweet smoky whisky - a rare malt where they achieved a great balance without the use of a sherry butt. I like.
Official Tasting Note:
The nose seemed unusual - salted almonds and rice crackers; seaweed, sushi and Early Grey tea; smoked sausage, tar, hospitals, garage workshops and farmyards. The unreduced palate was enormous - tar, smoke and ash - big time; also salty liquorice, menthol, Arbroath smokies and the seaweed found in Japanese rice crackers. Adding water brought the nuttiness and sweetness forward on the nose; we also identified flying saucers, soap and dried strawberries. The reduced palate was still interesting but more tamed - vanilla sweetness, tongue-tingling ginger and cured sausage with subtle caraway and mace flavourings. The distillery is owned by the Lock Lomond Distillery Company.
Ardbeg 8 (SMWS 33.113), or Sweet, Peaceful Dreams
Distilled July 2003, Price of $85
ABV: 60.4%
Color: pale yellow
Nose: some sweet gingerbread, campfire, a little banana and some soap
Taste: charred oak, pepper, and a lot more saltiness than I would expect from the nose. the finish is long and peppery. it’s young, but think of an in your face Talisker. Water brings out bitterness and even more pepper. There’s slight red fruit on it, but it’s peppered.
Overall: This is a spicy whisky. It’s hot black pepper, in your face, no holds barred. I hate when people call a whisky ‘young,’ but this tastes like it may have been brought out of the barrel early. It reminds me of PC7 without the sherry influence. I don’t find anything sweet or peaceful about it.
Official Tasting Note:
You’re in a fabulous pavilion - soaking in a bubble-bath - sweetly peaceful. Nearby, a platter of exotic fruits (pineapple, papaya, lychees) and a dram of this. Across the room there’s a fire of fragrant pine cones. Outside, the eighteenth green of the world-class golf course that you have just completed way under par. The door opens and another serving girl appears with poppy seed biscuits, Italian fennel-flavoured salami and a beaming smile. You are tired but still feeling strong and proud of your achievements. Everything is in balance and harmony - the dream, the feeling, and the evocative scents and flavours from this ‘small headland’ dram.
Clynelish 21 (SMWS 26.84), or Moorland after rain
Distilled August 1990, Price of $145
ABV: 49.1%
Color: pale black gold
Nose: parsley, spearmint, slightly rotting apple, orange citrus
Taste: starts with wax, and melts into a minty leather. Real smooth. Real oily. The mint is still there and the finish is warming. A little water (doesn’t need much) brings out everything more. The wax flavor heavies, the citrus appears, and the minty leather becomes stronger in the finish.
Overall: tasty, interesting, and a good clean finish. the balance between the contrasting flavors is impressive, and it’s a great contemplative whisky.
Official Tasting Note:
We immediately notes a lightly mentholated effect, then a complex of fruity and woody scents: artificial peach, fruit syrup, varnish, natural liquorice, stripped wood, sawdust, beeswax. The taste, unreduced, is sweet, herbal and fruity (‘lime pith’), with light waxiness and white-pepper spiciness. It takes a while to open up with water, then becomes very fragrant (patchouli and vanilla, meadowsweet and elderflower) and fruity (fruit salad chews, fresh pineapple, rhubarb), with a whiff of snuffed candle. The taste is sweet and waxy; the floral note is now jasmine, and the fruity element Juicy Fruit chewing gum and orange pith. The distillery stands adjacent to another of the same name, overlooking the North Sea.
-StrongLikeCask